Sunday, July 11, 2010
The Violent Hour
Friday, July 9, 2010
Coffee, and More Coffee, a Culinary Review by Psycho Butcher
Thursday, December 10, 2009
A letter from Federal Prison from Psycho Butcher, our Restaurant Critic
Thursday, April 2, 2009
A Tale of Two Hot Dogs
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
The Weak Do Not Deserve to Eat Here
a Culinary Review of Kuma's Corner
By Psycho Butcher
It is a discernible fact of human existence that there are stupid, witless human beings who have little appreciation for the life granted to them by dark unknowable powers, and that these are the majority. These people consume vast amounts of frozen food, eat at TGIFridays with some regularity, obsess about their girth, or the lack of it, and generally cannot tell decent food from the massmarket crap that pervades every opportunity to stuff a ho-ho or McNugget into an orifice. Note, gentle reader, I am not saying there is anything wrong with occasionally getting high and debasing one's self with a bag of Doritos, or wandering through the drive through of a Mc Donalds and, in an intoxicated state, shoving fistfuls of lovely fries down ones throat while sitting in a parking space. Such episodes are a vital to the process of being human, and debasement has its place in the scheme of things. The crux of the matter is that stupid people cannot tell the difference between a hamburger that is a true work of culinary genius and a massmarket piece of crap designed to appease the masses. Kuma's serves the former, not the latter. In fact, the hamburgers at Kumas rank among the finest culinary accomplishments in the city, along with the hot dogs at Hot Doug's, the sandwiches at Bari, and the cassoulet at La Sardine.
This place is also notable because it is a bar devoted to Metal, in all its destructive energy, ostentation, glory, and ugly grandeur. It is a virtual shrine to Metal and its aesthetic, from the names of the menu items to the vinyl on display over the bar, from the malevolent bear logo, to the "Die Emo Die" written in chalk above everything else over the bar. It is a place where metalheads go to finally hear their favorite music, played without irony or apology, as they dine, get drunk, or otherwise enjoy themselves. The place is devoted to supporting the local scene, and acts such as The Lair of the Minotaur and Plague Bringer receive equal billing to the likes of Neurosis and Darkthrone.
The place is frequently very busy, especially at those hours when a hamburger and three pints of beer seem like a good idea. If you cannot tolerate a wait for a table, you are weak, you should not go here. The strong know that waiting for a table means that, either the food is good, or that there are not many other options around. Every stupid bar in the city has a hamburger, so the second contingency is void. The food is that good.
I have watched many a petulant couple enter the place, notice the wait, then leave and it is always amusing to note instances where the would-be carnivores were scared off by the music. One particularly notable example walked in, dressed to go somewhere nice, the way yuppies do. The woman, seeing the place and hearing the crushing strains of Mayhem and Pig Destroyer, lambasted the man for bringing her to a trashy place, full of metalhead vermin. He left with his tail between his legs, emasculated. Fool.
I will not describe the menu except to say that the Mac and Cheese is every bit as good as the burgers. The salads are surprisingly good, because to neglect them and have them on the menu would defy the place's monstrous and uncompromising commitment to metal superiority, the selection of beers and wines is appropriate, and that to serve a hamburger, crumbled over a bed of fries, as the Slayer is served, is genius.
I am pleased to report that they have made some progress on their fries, which are now quite good. This is important, because an excellent hamburger served with average fries is an average experience.
Kuma's Corner is as 2900 West Belment. kumascorner.com
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Every Person in the MIdwest Should Be Forced to Eat Burgers at Kumas Corner: A Culinary Review by Psyko Butcher
Thursday, July 31, 2008
Babies should not be permitted to defile the sanctity of my repast
A Culinary Review of Maya Del Sol, by PsyCHO ButCHER
Oak Park. Earnest Hemingway called it the city of broad lawns and narrow minds, and despite their unflagging liberalism, this continues to be the case today. Liberals often fail to see how they can be narrow-minded, always assured that they are completely correct in their beliefs, and thus, having arrived at their narrow-minded opinions through the best of intentions, recontextualize their mental arthritis as a perverse virtue. Oak Park is the sort of place people are scowled at for not recycling plastic by housewives who commit far greater sins to the planet by their overconsumption of gasoline for their mini van. It is a safe, reasonable, and banal place to grow up-and thus, it produces a profusion of babies. Babies should not be allowed in restaurants unless their owners have given the other patrons of the restaurant to discipline the child for its misbehavior, with sharp knives, if necessary. My rhythm guitarist, a female, assures me that crying babies result from a failure of parents to apply a program of operant conditioning on their hellspawn. Children who eat cocoa puffs in front of the TV, with a plastic spoon and a sippi cup, are so overstimulated at meals, and so unused to sitting still, that in every restaurant they must run around with a fish stick in their hand or face the angst of a life spend in the waning days of a great civilization, with doom on every horizon. Our children know it is their fate to suffer for our collective sins. They hate us for it. Thus, they cry.
Maya Del Sol is the most promising restaurant to spring up in this culinary wasteland for a great span of time. Usually, Oak Parkers, mild in their dispositions, fail to recognize good food when they encounter it. Oak Parkers mistake snootiness for good food. Their suburban lives have given them so few experiences by which to judge anything, every piece of shoe leather served on the right table setting passes for fine cuisine. Maya Del Sol is a Latin Fusion restaurant, meaning that the chef has license to serve up food from anywhere on the globe that Che Guevera would have sought to convert to communism. This, generally speaking, is a good idea. The empanadas we ate, though wrapped curiously in spring roll wrappers, were presentable. Their salsa verde was truly incredible, curiously, served with an unpalatable alternate that tasted like Campbell's tomato soup out of the can. The Tilapia tacos I had were decadent, extraordinary, apocalyptic in their glory. Best since Mas, on Division street.
I recommend this place. Knock over a stroller on your way in.
Thursday, April 10, 2008
An Ill-Begotten Beginning
A Culinary Review by Psycho Butcher
The particular operation, on Eighteenth street in the lovely Pilsen neighborhood, was suggested by a friend on the basis of its inherent promise. I say lovely, because it is ruled by picturesque criminal gangs and has buildings whose exteriors contain elements of the quaint and unexpected. Within its confines is a place that offers live country music on Friday and Saturday nights, and is in the process of opening its doors to guests. The food, though not terrible, is not great. The cornbread was too dry. I make better cornbread and my oven must double as a kiln for crafting swords. The idea of roasting meat over a flame appeals to me for reasons which should be obvious to my regular readers. The meat was adequate. The chicken fatty and cheap. The ribs equally so. The mac and cheese tolerable. The bread worthless. Ironically, the only truly exceptional meal was their vegetarian option.
This was all very disappointing because the room is truly charming. It has a high ceiling and is replete with rustic nicknacks. So unfortunate that they did not expend so much energy on plates an silverware. There were none of either. Dine-in guests are quite literally forced to eat their meals, carry-out style, on to-go paper and with to-go forks. This infuriated me so much I nearly stabbed the waitress, friendly and charming though she was. Even the pathetic to-go boats dispensed to us were inadequately small.
The place serves no coffee. My charming server looked at me as if it were normal that a place that serves dessert lack coffee, trying to sell me sweet potato pie at the same time she denied me the essential accompaniement. She is lucky to have left the table with her life.
Unless you are a buffoon and like country music, do not go here.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
In the West, Cuisine ist Krieg
Tuesday, March 18, 2008
Brunch
A Culinary Review by the Illustrious and Infernal Psycho Butcher
Since my unfortunate period of incarceration, I have made a point of appreciating the small things in life that a person might otherwise ignore: candlelight, black nail polish, wood smoke. One of the greatest of these small joys is the ritual of brunch. It compares favorably to a Sunday afternoon, spent on the floor of a prison cell, administering a homemade tattoo with an unraveled bass string and the broken contents of a Bic pen, though I must admit, the latter has its charms as well.
I write all this because I recently dined at Hot Chocolate, for brunch, and it was worth the hellish wait. In fact, they provide free coffee, and fragments of delicious pastries, while encouraging the would-be patron to sit on comfortable furniture. This was, frankly, amazing to me. When brunch came, I was delighted. Each member of our party had a dish that amounted to a novel interpretation of a classic delight. The grilled cheese sandwich was delightful. The real trick was the analog of the Egg Mc Muffin that my drummer was kind enough to share with me. It was heavenly. The donuts there live up to their reputation- for them it is perhaps worth waiting ten years in a cramped cell.
Monday, March 17, 2008
Black Metal Restaurant Review
Mr. Psycho Butcher wrote this in 2003, I think. He is out of prison again. It is worth reprinting because he has voiced a desire to continue writing these dispatches.
BLACK METAL RESTURAUNT REVIEW
By PSYcho ButchER
Avec
The
Avec (which simply means "with" in French, an unfortunately trendy name. It seems to be a reference to the way the place is paired with its older neighbor, Blackbird, to the West, or perhaps it is a reference to the way food is supposed to be shared at the place. Ahhh, blackbird, such a dark name.) is in a particularly cavernous part of
The last time I went, it was on a Monday night, just as the sun was setting beneath the horizon and I could walk about under the cover of darkness. For the money, the place is one of the best "nice" restaurants in the city, so I expected the place to be crowded with the teeming hoards of foodies. I was not disappointed. The Chef, Koren Grieveson (hopefully, she is Nordic, such a powerful menu full of the Nichean ethic), designed a whole menu around small plates that are meant to be shared. To the uninitiated, this means you spend money on a ridiculously small dish and get pissed off, stabbing someone on your way out. To the culinary ubermensch, however, it means you can partake of a few small culinary masterpieces and share them, leaving with your hunger sated and yet not bloated to the point of loosing your pale, drawn figure.
If you have weak-willed plutocratic tastes, you will hate this place and you should stay away and suffer. They will make you share a table. I despise the weaklings who will not sit next to their fellow man. What are they afraid of? A dark clad figure in facepaint reeking of EVIL? The long wood tables are so that you can commune with the horde, supping together as in the great MEAD HALLS of old. This is one of the most magnificent aspects of eating in a great gothic metropolis such as Chicago or Paris. Those who are too timid to share my space should go to some horrible suburban hell or eat at the Cheesecake Factory and grow fat and stupid.
The garlic sausage on the menu is incredible to behold, savage and imbued with the spirit of the animal. The most magnificent dish is their seafood soup, an incredible and strong food that will leave you gasping for want of more. Their cured meat is excellent as well, and I liked watching it hang forlornly in the case they use to age it to perfection.
They have an excellent choice of wine at Avec, and for an elite restaurant, most of it is decently inexpensive. This is good; I like to imbibe hearty swallows of wine without wondering whether I will be able to buy the new Dimmu Borgir album when it comes out. Last time I was in, it was a MONDAY, and the first three bottles I ordered were sold out. The one I finally got was a superior bottle, however, and my fine serving wench was versed enough with the menu to keep steering me toward the BLOOD RED vintages I prefer. If you prefer to swill and waste your money drinking at Cru, to hell with you, you are weak.
If you have beer and pretzel tastes, you should have the knowledge of self and purity of purpose to stay away. This haven is not for you. If you are a plutocrat out to impress a date with your taste for luxury, drive into the lake and die and leave this place to those truly hungry to taste life before Armageddon takes all the fine food from us and replaces it with hell and turmoil.
Avec is at